Krishnan Photography

Pack Attack ! – Tadoba- Andhari Tiger Reserve

June 25th,2008

After a three hours forty minutes being on “holding pattern”, our flight into Nagpur got diverted to Hyderabad. We cooled our heels waiting inside the aircraft for the weather to clear. Finally we landed at Nagpur at 0100H in the morning. Thankfully, the van was waiting and we drove straight to Tadoba. Tadoba is about 230Kms south of Nagpur. We reached Tadoba at 0500H dumped our bags, and got into a Bandu’s Gypsy for the morning safari.


During the morning drive we heard a tiger and we waited for about 40 mins and decided to move on. The morning was nice and cool and the drives with zero dust since it had rained the previous day. A sloth bear crossed the road and before we could edge nearer, another jeep rushed ahead to get a closer view and, the bear scooted off into the woods . We saw lapwings by the dozens and Indian pittas. The Pittas scrambled before we could get any where close. We did get some good views of the White eye buzzard but no luck with pics. Jungle quails were visible in plenty but, not much chance for pics as the scampered away before one could “take bead” .

Lapwing Chick,

Lesser whistling teals

We were able to see this huge handsome wild boar up close. Bandu drove us all over in search of the elusive tiger but, no luck. Did see a lot of birdlife which was just fine. Definitely a good drive given the sleepless night we had endured to get here.

On the photography front, this was my very first safari with the 600mm. I was hand holding the 600 and, keeping it on my lap while moving. The seats on the jeep were facing sideways. While shooting, I got up and used the driver cabin roof for support. Sitting sideways is not the best way to scan the scene as also uncomfortable to travel for any length of time.

When we got back after the safari, we heard that the tiger had crossed at at that same point, about ten minutes after we had left. Back at the room we crashed to catch up on sleep before the evening safari.

For the evening safari, after the not so great experience in keeping the 600mm on a sideways facing vehicle, I decided to take the 300 2.8 + TC 1.7. We started to do the tiger routes but not much luck. The white eye buzzard was sighted pretty close but we couldn’t react fast enough to take a pic and it flew off. We did stumble on a small water basin where different birds came in to drink. I wish I had the 600mm here. Badly need another body for my next trip. Wish that D3X would be available soon ! We saw the magpie robin , the oriental white eye and also the paradise flycatcher come in for a drink n a dip ! Yes we did see pittas but, they gave us the slip every time. Swapnil started this thing about code naming the Pitta into a “Tho” hopin if one doesn’t say the Pitta word, the bird might stay long enough to get a pic ! On the way back , a Roller gave us great views, so much so that we got sick of clicking roller pics !

The next day morning I decided to try the tripod on the jeep and , it worked very well. As we entered the park a Jungle Fowl gave us great views.

Then…we spotted an Indian Pitta on the road. The driver smartly switched off the engine and we coasted nearer and we finally got the “Tho” shot !!!

We drove repeatedly around the area where we might spot a tiger but not much luck at all. A few alarms calls but no tiger. Meanwhile we did see a sight of two monitor lizards fighting . They were about 300 meters away and before we could edge nearer , another vehicle zoomed ahead scattering the monitor lizards. However I did work the 600mm and got this shot which I call, “Lizard Hug” !

Ahead of Tadoba lake, we spotted a Crested Serpent Eagle close to the trail. The CSE dove and caught three frogs. Two on one claw and one on another.

That had it really puzzled as to what to do next>>

The CSE then lost one frog>>

and then lost the other two as well.

Here is the “Duh” look !>>>

Then it managed to grab one back >>>

and snacked in. >>>

Before we turned back, we then checked out another waterhole and saw this snake cooling off.

Afternoon we checked out a wetland about a kilometer before the park entrance. I saw a few pied kingfishers hovering and I setup my tripod and 600mm. Awesome sight !

Evening, tiger hunt again but not much luck. But got great views of Sambar deer and a bee eater juvenile.

As we were returning , we heard alarm calls and, Bandu the driver, dived in and went “hell for leather”, on a new trail trying to get to the spot of the call. As the vehicle was speeding, I spotted something ahead and on the right, running towards us and,shouted “Fox” ! As we slowed I saw it was a Wild Dog or “Dhole” chasing an adult deer. The pack was following close and as the deer came near us the dogs caught up with it and ….we saw the rare sight of a wild Dog Hunt in its final stages. I had the 70-200 lens on initially. This shot.

then switched to the 600mm, ISO 800 for all shots.

Series here >>> Wild Dog Hunt Series

Awesome and rare but gruesome sight, a wild dog hunt. They keep rotating the “chase lead” and, tire out their prey. Unlike cats which strangulate and kill before they eat, wild dogs eat their prey alive. The wild dogs indeed are, the supreme predators. All of us got shots and, Vivek shot a video of the hunt on his Panasonic Lumix.

The last day morning safari Bandu gave us a replacement driver. The drive started off well actually. A Wild Dog pack had encircled a Gaur but the Gaur was too big to handle and, they gave up.

The rest of the drive was quite an anti climax. Not much sightings. Sighted A pair of Barred Jungle Owlets and, got this Changable Hawk Eagle take off.

We missed Bandu and his enthusiasm to find game. I am sure we would have had better sightings if he would have been there. We got back and packed up to head back to Nagpur. On the way we stopped by the wetland and grabbed some Pratincole pictures. I chose the 300+TC 1.7 since I had already packed in my 600. Even though I crawled (army style) pretty close to a bird in all that muck, the afternoon haze made getting a shot very tough . But, I did manage this flyer of a collared Pratincole.

Parag also spotted lapwing and pratincole nests in that area. He is one nest sniffer !

All in all, a wonderful and hugely satisfying trip. And I picked up some Marathi words as well “Samur” – Ahead n “Varti”- above n “Fandi” – a branch 🙂 Tadoba is worth a visit and, if you want to see tigers, get up there in May.

To view all pics from this trip

Driver Contact Details: Highly Recommended Guide n Driver – Bandu Mankar – Mobile : +91 9423652333, +91 9921980564

Trip Reports

16 responses to “Pack Attack ! – Tadoba- Andhari Tiger Reserve”

  1. dear krish………
    nice report & indeed u r lucky to get all these things in a one trip….. i was at Tadoba in the last year for 6 days…. but no Tigre no Dhole.. only birds….
    but it tempts me to go there once again….
    keep it up waiting for next…
    thanks & regards
    Shrikant.. (Mumbai)

  2. Dear Krishnan,

    Wonderful report and great pics!

    I’m a 60-yr old nature and wildlife lover and bird-watcher, just retired from regular salaried work, living in Delhi. Also a founder-member of the Delhi Bird Club.

    Just loved the photgraphy commentary accompanying the pics, and learnt a lot thereby, thanks.

    My means being somehat slender, I can’t think of a d-SLR with long lenses. QUESTION: (a) In your Tadoba situation, would a ‘bridge camera’ Canon S5 IS (12X) (35mm equivalent of about 460 mm) with its 1.6X TC, or a new Olympus 18X, be suitable for dholes and for birds fairly close, eg, those jungle quails and the Gray Junglefowl? (b) Which is better, the Canon 12X or the Olympus 18X?

    Regards,

    Gautam Das

  3. Krish,

    Some good stuff. Can’t say its all the work of the new 600mm 😉 but it sure has helped. Great images. And next time, please do take Manju along 😉

    Cheers…Kishore

  4. Hi Krishnan

    It’s really nice to experience again on ur site. Though i kept saying whole trip, we need atleast one tiger sighting. i would say all of us have seen pack of small tiger’s.they were too good.
    Thanks for sharing good pics.

    Vivek

  5. hi,
    can you pls suggest me how to get in touch with forest dept for huts which thery have ? or would you suggest only mtdc well and good?
    can u pls let me know earliest by tommw/??

  6. I suggest you get in touch with Bandu Mankar. His contact is Bandu Mankar – Mobile : +91 9423652333, +91 9921980564

  7. hey..lovely narration..awesome pictures..loved each n every pixel here…planing to go to Tadoba this october…know its not the best time..but just need a break and have to head to the jungle somewhere…any suggestions?

  8. Nice narration sir….
    Quite lucky to see Dhole. Nd lots of birds… I’m also being moving into jungles many a times but still not found a dhole… For tigers do visit Tadoba now… U may even sight them in buffer zones of Tadoba. I hav sighted two tiger daily in buffer zones on bike.

  9. Nice narration sir….
    Quite lucky to see Dhole. Nd lots of birds… I’m also being moving into jungles many a times but still not found a dhole… For tigers do visit Tadoba now… U may even sight them in buffer zones of Tadoba.

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