Rustom is the guy. One really sweet and wonderful Bodo who has the finest eye for them birdies. But, before I get to Rustom….
Rustom on the right
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The Kingfisher flight from Mumbai to Guwahati gave us some splendid views of the himalayas. Rahul who was sitting next to me, mentioned that one of those peaks visible on this splendidly clear day was the Mount Everest & the Kanchanjunga. We sent a note to the captain and he promptly announced when we flew past the Mount Everest. That was our first sighting of the trip and, it bode very well indeed !
View from the flight
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Landing at Guwahati, Shishir Adhikari (shishir.adhikari07 a t gmail) our majordomo, was waiting for us to take us to the Brahmaputra Jungle Resort. A relatively new but comfy resort with, some amazing river fish curry and food !
The next day morning , we set off for Koklabari, Manas via Rangia & Pathshala. Our base for the next few days would be the Manas Eco Camp.
Room @ Manas Eco Camp which is run by the Manas Maozingendri Eco Tourism Society ( MMES )
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The camp is conveniently located right outside the park entrance. We dumped our bags and set out to find the “critically endangered” and extremely shy, Bengal Florican. The Florican is a grassland bird that needs quality grassland to survive which are rapidly diminishing. It has been extensively hunted for its meat. The Bengal Florican is now restricted to one or two areas in the North East and its numbers are estimated to be well below a 1000. We were told that about a half a dozen or so birds are found in the Koklabari area. Spotting these gems were high on the priority list. And spot them we did, inside of twenty minutes into our first foray at Koklabari, thanks to Rustom. The bird was a male in heavy moult. The light was’nt too bad but dipping fast. I had my D2X with the 600VR + TC17 with which I worked the subject. For such a rare and, almost on the verge of extinction species, any pic was priceless. We had a cool twenty minute very good sighting. We also spotted a bunch of Northern Lapwings, all these a first or “lifers” for me.
The Bengal Florican
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As we rolled on, we sighted our first wild buffalo , a bunch of pied harriers and a hen harrier flew around. We tried to get close to the roosting pied harriers but the light had dropped pretty much and we decided to call it a day. Before we quit, I had to try a few hand held shots in the dying light.
Wild Buffalo
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Pied Harrier in Flight ( The lousy Shot)
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Photographically, long is less and, any ISO is less as well. The north east birds are shy, very shy and you really need the longest lens you can get, to get even somewhat half decent shots. I used the 600+TC on the D2X initially and then as the light dropped, switched the 600 to the D3. The harrier flight shots were with the D3 +600 +TC handheld.
Back at the camp, we met Sandesh Kadur and exchanged notes. Sandesh co-ordinates stuff for the National Geographic films in India.
The 24the morning we went into the Manas forest looking for forest birds. We did hear a lot of activity but, the birds were high up in the canopy. Mix the morning mist and thats a really tough situation to do much photography. We spotted an Orange breasted Chloropsis and Chestnut backed Laughing thrushes. We halted at a forest watch tower and patrolling camp and grabbed a very tasty breakfast with some welcome hot chai. This spot gave us a views of a very accommodating Russet Sparrow couple. Just as we were pulling into the camp, right on the road was a pair of White Faced wagtails. I started to focus and all of a sudden a fight erupted between them. I kept the shutter depressed and let the motor drive do its thing and, ended up with this interesting frame . The dominant wagtail had pretty much pinned the other to the ground and was plucking feathers off its victim !
Wagtail Fight
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We looped back via Doimari and encountered tiger pugmarks enroute. A troop of capped langurs jumped along the trees on the trail. An elephant with its calf were grazing peacefully till such time the wind turned and, started to blow towards them. Af the first hint of us the mother pushed the calf and ran off into the forest. The sun came up but late . and, a bunch of scarlet minivets kept us enthralled. Just as we were getting out of the park, a black eagle gave us very good views.
The Capped Langur
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Doimari
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The Black Eagle
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By the time we got back for lunch, it was already running way late. We grabbed a quick lunch & headed straight out into the Bengal Florican area. But this time, the bird remained pretty much out of sight. We went chasing a pied harrier but hardly any luck. Meanwhile a hen harrier flew past . So taken was I with the glide of the hen harrier that, I decided to just keep watching thru the binocular and not bother with the camera. We then spotted a pied harrier sitting on, what was an ideal picture perfect perch. But, before we could get anywhere near, it flew off. I then I decided to try and stalk it on the ground. Not much luck but, just as the guy took off I rammed a long burst with the D3 600+TC17 handheld. Due to the dropping light I had maxed the ISO to 6400 and was able to get this full frame. Yes the bird is centered but, I like the way the trees and the bird have come out in this frame. Finally a half decent Pied harrier shot ! I had initially wanted to skip the evening ride since I was really tired with lugging the big lens all morning. Thanks to Rahul, who encouraged me to “just come along” I got this shot. This one is for you bro 🙂
The Pied Harrier full frame ( Handheld D3, 600VR + TC17, ISO 6400 )
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The next morning we birded our way to Mothanguri. A huge “makhana” which is a tuskless male elephant, and was in “musth” blocked our track for a bit and, we watched it anxiously till it decided to amble away from the track and into the forest. On the approach to the camp we saw our first Great Pied hornbill. A changeable Hawk eagle sat high up on the silk cotton tree. And there was one pretty active Malayan Giant squirrel on that same tree. Surely, quite a grand welcome to Mothanguri .
The Malayan Giant Squirrel
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We were lucky to stay at the upper rest house at Mothanguri. As soon as we arrived Rustom spotted a few “Golden Langurs” in the far distance across the Manas river . Long shot is an understatement. The Langurs were barely discernible through binoculars and the distance was easily over one kilometer. It was afternoon but there was still mild haze and diffused light. Here is a full frame of that instant.
Golden Langur Long Long shot and on the right is the view from the upper rest house at Mothanguri.
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Just as we were leaving for the evening safari, a troop of capped langurs came right by the kitchen hut .
Morning of the 26th we rolled out into quite a misty morning. The serpent eagle sat on the branch rather close to the road. A little ahead we spotted a lone Great Pied Hornbill sitting on a tree top. On scanning the area with binoculars we also saw a capped langur on that same tree. Initially the langur was a little away from the hornbill. Then the curiosity got the better of it and it approached closer. The hornbill got ready and as soon as its minimum comfort zone was breached, it took off with a loud typical “bark”. Misty morning and low light but I was ready with the D3 & the 600. ISO 4000. I initially had the TC 17 on but, removed it to get the langur into the frame. Here is the sequence below.
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The sun finally started to break through around 9 AM. We spotted a mixed hunting party mainly of minivets . A Common green Magpie flew into the undergrowth. Before we could fully stop, Rustom excitedly yelled “Sultan Tit”. Wow what a bird it was. Full black with a yellow spikey hairdo ! A really rare sighting. The bird was almost overhead and before I could line up my camera, it flew ahead into the foliage. The commotion had alerted Rahul & Girish and the bird stopped by a clear patch for them to grab quick shots. From my position I could barely see the bird behind the branches. Wonderful and rare sighting surely, all thanks to eagle eyed Rustom !
Bulbul in the mist
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Photographic learning, take the first shot with a handhold able setup and then shift to the biggie lens. If I should have done this, I could have got one shot of the Sultan Tit surely. Experience is a nice teacher for sure. I think this is THE technique to be employed for shooting shy birdies which hardly give you time to lineup.
At 10.30 we got permission to walk a trail on the Bhutan side of Manas river. We took a boat across to the Bhutan side and started walking downstream. About a kilometer down we cut in northwards in to the jungle. Rustom was leading the trail and we were looking for the Golden Langurs we had seen from the Mothanguri resthouse. Rustom and I were leading the ahead and soon Lakhi the ranger reached us and asked us to turn back. Rahul and the others had meanwhile been able to spot the Golden Langurs on the silk cotton tree. We backtracked and sure enough there were two Golden Langurs and a baby. It was a wonderful sight to see these pretty rare species up close and in nature. The Golden Langurs are seen on the Bhutan side of Manas National Park. On the India side I am told they can be found at the Chakrashila Wildlife Sanctuary in Kokrajhar District. On the return we saw a Pallas Fish eagle flyby. There were a few Mergansers spotted and a big flock of Pratincoles were feeding on the river bank. All in all a, kick ass morning!
The Bhutan Checkpost
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After lunch we had planned to raft down the Manas. Soon after we started we saw a River Lapwing. A pallas eagle was perched on a branch on the bank. We were able to spot a lot of Mergansers. As the raft neared them, they took off giving us some wonderful views.
Merganser in Flight
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The Pallas Fish Eagle
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Towards the end of the trip there were plenty of large cormorants and small pratincoles on the river banks. I had taken both the 600 & the 300 +TC on the boat. Again really bad idea. Firstly, I failed to estimate that there would be no space to work the 600. Had I stuck to the 300+TC combo, I am sure I would have got a few more shots. Yes the 600 is very much needed but, given the number of people in the raft, it was a bad call. The next time a few points to keep in mind for a raft trip. Less people is good. Only then, take a 600, otherwise stick to something hand holdable. Even with few people and the 600 there would be considerable movement due to the flowing water. One needs to track the subject early and, release the shutter as the compositional elements arrive into the viewfinder.
The last day at Manas, we decided to do the same trail where we had spotted the Sultan Tit. As usual a misty morning but not that bad but, not good enough for great images. A few minutes into the drive just a about a kilometer from the camp, we heard & spotted a Great Pied Hornbill thru the trees.
The Great Pied Hornbill in the morning mist
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As our vehicles crawled forward and killed the engines, the Hornbills became a little nervous and took off with their classic,whoosh of the wings. There were a bunch od twelve we saw taking off. Luckily this time I had learn my lesson and I was ready. I was on the D3 + 300 2.8 + TC17 giving me 500mm true and very hand holdable.Rahul who was in the vehicle ahead was able to grab a neat video clip. I think I now understand the video requirement a little better. A video of the twelve Great Pied Hornbills flying past with their charecteristic “whoosh” of the wings is, something that really brings across that moment in time, rather well.
Great Pied Hornbill flys away in the morning Mist ( Full Frame )
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It was pretty misty and I tried some monochromic misty shots
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A mother & baby capped langur jump to another tree
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Though the sun came up and we got some wonderful views of the Chestnut Capped Babbler.
The Chestnut Capped Babbler
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We did not have any luck on the Sultan Tit this time. We did get a Slaty Backed Forktail early on but the light was pretty low and the bird pretty far away. Our vehicle came back to the camp first. The other vehicle with Girish & Ramakrishna in it spotted an incoming Great Pied, Ramakrishna managed a few wonderful shots and, in great light.
Bridges on the trail
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Here is the link to the consolidated GPS track of my Manas trip. Yo can upload this to a Garmin and follw the same track if you so desire 🙂
With that, we wrapped up Manas, thanked Rustom & Lakhi et al and, headed out back to Guwahati for the nights stay. 28th morning the plan was to leave Guwahati for Kaziranga National Park. Thats in the next part that will follow…….
Photo Gear Suggestion for safari at Manas:
* Handheld setup: Body + 300mm 2.8 + TC ( First grab a shot with this for skittish birdies/ use on a raft )
* Long lens Setup : Body + 600VR + TC on a bean bag.
* Ideally a third body + wide
* I recommend fill in flash for birdies as well.
Power & Logistics at Manas
Quick note on the power situation. You do get a few hours power at both Kolabari & Mothanguri. This is enough to recharge batteries etc. But, if you do want to be really self contained, you will need to bring along a “car inverter” and an muti plug strip. Te Car inverter plugs to the car or jeep cigarette lighter socket and outputs regular AC. Since the car inverter has only one output socket, the multi plug strip will help you put on charge a few devices simultaneously.
Note on the food availability situation at Mothanguri: You need go self prepared here is the current situation. At Koklabari food is not a problem.
Best Time to visit : – Mid Jan – Mid March . Expect early morning mist / fog end Jan.
To help plan a trip, I will highly recommend Rahul Rao ( http://www.foliageoutdoors.com )
Good one after a long time. I miss 17-35 landscapes though.
Fantastic images Krish !! Looks like u had a super super trip.
great report
Good write up, enjoyed it! The chestnut capped babbler rocks!
A good write up..
hey krish beautiful writeup not to mention the photographs as well
hey u changed the look of ur site….looks nice 😀
btw grt manas pics…!!
Very nice information and images too.
Atul Dhamankar
That’s a trip report that entices!! The pics are stunning & so beautifully bring movement alive. Hv got a fix on my next holiday plan. 🙂
Hi Krishnan,
You have managed to get some really cool shots.
Regards,
Arunava
Great pics and info! Wish I was there-
Fantastic images Krish !! Looks like u had a super super trip.
excellent….. & ………. fantastic. with a wild & green wishes ……..subrata.
Good captures 🙂 well narrated post..
Regards..